Hakone Old Tokaido Trail: Walk the Stone-Paved Path from Yumoto to Lake Ashi

The Hakone Old Tokaido Trail is a preserved section of the historic Tokaido, one of Japan’s five major highways during the Edo period. This particular segment connects Hakone-Yumoto and Lake Ashi (Motohakone), and it was once a vital route for travelers, merchants, and daimyo processions between Kyoto and Edo (modern-day Tokyo). The mountainous Hakone area was considered one of the toughest parts of the entire journey.
 

What makes this trail truly captivating is the fact that parts of it have remained virtually unchanged since the Edo period. The stone-paved paths, carefully laid centuries ago, still line the trail today, allowing modern hikers to literally walk in the footsteps of travelers from over 200 years ago. As you step onto the stones, you’ll feel the texture beneath your feet and imagine the countless footsteps that have passed here before.
 

Another highlight of the trail is its beautiful cedar-lined sections, particularly between Hatajuku and the famous Amazake Chaya. These towering trees form a natural canopy that filters the sunlight, creating a tranquil, almost sacred atmosphere. Walking under their shade, especially during the spring’s fresh greenery or the autumn foliage season, can feel like stepping into a time capsule.
 

The trail also offers historical remnants along the way, such as old teahouses, mile markers, and stone signposts engraved with the word "Tokaido". One standout is Amazake Chaya, a rest stop that has been serving travelers for over 400 years. Here, you can enjoy traditional sweet sake and rice cakes while sitting around a traditional hearth — an authentic Edo-period experience that’s rare to find elsewhere.
 

Toward the end of the trail, you’ll come across the Hakone Checkpoint (Hakone Sekisho), a fully restored historic site that once played a critical role in monitoring travelers for weapons and unauthorized passage. The checkpoint buildings and nearby museum provide fascinating insight into how strictly the Tokugawa shogunate controlled movement across the country.
 

Today, the trail isn’t just a walk through nature — it’s a walk through history. Its appeal spans across generations and interests, attracting not only hiking enthusiasts and history buffs but also solo travelers and casual tourists. With signposts, rest areas, and clearly marked paths, it’s accessible even to first-time hikers.
 

In short, the Hakone Old Tokaido Trail is more than just a hiking route. It’s an immersive, sensory-rich journey through Japan’s cultural and historical legacy — and one of the few places where the past and present coexist so seamlessly.

The Hakone Old Tokaido Trail between Hakone-Yumoto and Lake Ashi (Motohakone) stretches approximately 8 to 10 kilometers and is known as one of the most scenic and historically rich segments of the original Tokaido route. While it once posed a major challenge to travelers of the Edo period, today it’s a well-maintained hiking course that blends cultural heritage with beautiful nature — perfect for those seeking a half-day adventure out of the city.
 

On average, the trail takes about 3 to 4 hours to complete at a steady pace. However, if you factor in breaks, photo stops, and visits to tea houses or historic sites, a total time of 4.5 to 5 hours is more realistic. For first-time hikers or those who wish to walk leisurely, starting the hike before 10 AM is ideal to ensure you finish before sunset, especially during the shorter daylight hours in fall and winter.
 

The route can be broken down into three main sections:
 

1. Hakone-Yumoto to Hatajuku
This is the most gentle part of the trail, consisting of a mix of paved roads, residential areas, and short stretches of the old stone-paved path. It serves as a good warm-up and allows you to gradually transition from the townscape into the forested hills.
 

2. Hatajuku to Amazake Chaya
In this middle section, you’ll encounter more continuous stretches of authentic Edo-period cobblestones and dense cedar forests. The terrain becomes more rugged here, with steeper slopes and narrow paths. However, there are frequent rest areas and signboards offering historical context and trail guidance, making it friendly even for beginners. This is also where the atmosphere of the old road truly comes alive.
 

3. Amazake Chaya to Lake Ashi (Motohakone)
The final stretch is the most demanding. The path becomes steeper, with extended inclines and uneven terrain, but the sense of immersion deepens as you ascend. While it can be physically tiring, the endpoint rewards you with a spectacular view of Lake Ashi and, on clear days, Mount Fuji in the distance. The satisfaction of reaching the summit after a long ascent is one of the trail’s greatest rewards.
 

The elevation gain from Hakone-Yumoto (approx. 100 meters) to Lake Ashi (approx. 725 meters) totals more than 600 meters, so even though the trail is relatively short, it requires a moderate level of stamina. That said, it’s not a technical hike — with the right pacing and preparation, even first-time hikers can complete it safely and enjoyably.
 

Another benefit of this route is its accessibility. The Hakone Tozan Bus runs along National Route 1, which parallels much of the trail. In the event of fatigue or poor weather, you can easily exit the trail and catch a bus from one of several nearby stops.
 

Whether you walk the full trail or choose to explore just a portion of it, the Hakone Old Tokaido Trail offers a rich, immersive experience that combines physical activity with cultural discovery — all within a half-day’s journey from central Tokyo.

One of the most captivating aspects of the Hakone Old Tokaido Trail is its abundance of scenic beauty and cultural landmarks that punctuate the hike. Far from being just a mountain path, the trail is a living museum of the Edo period, with preserved architecture, ancient markers, and natural landscapes that tell stories of Japan’s past.
 

Perhaps the most iconic feature of the trail is its stone-paved path, laid during the Edo period by order of the Tokugawa shogunate. These stones were designed to help travelers maintain their footing on steep mountain slopes, and many sections remain intact today. Walking across them, especially in areas like Kashinokizaka (Oak Tree Slope) or Sarusuberizaka (Slippery Slope), gives hikers a literal connection to the past — the texture underfoot is a reminder of the thousands who journeyed this route centuries ago.
 

Another must-see feature is the majestic cedar-lined road, particularly the stretch between Hatajuku and Amazake Chaya. These towering trees, some hundreds of years old, create a serene tunnel-like atmosphere that provides shade and a profound sense of stillness. In spring, the fresh green leaves shimmer; in autumn, vibrant reds and yellows color the path — offering a new experience in every season.
 

A cultural gem along the way is the Amazake Chaya, a traditional teahouse that has been serving travelers since the early Edo period — over 400 years ago. Nestled in the mountains, this thatched-roof rest stop still uses time-honored recipes to serve warm sweet sake (amazake) and mochi (rice cakes). With a rustic hearth inside and wooden benches outside, it’s a perfect place to recharge and soak in the ambiance of a bygone era.
 

As you near the trail’s end at Lake Ashi, you’ll come upon the Hakone Checkpoint (Hakone Sekisho) and its adjoining museum. The original checkpoint was used by the Tokugawa government to strictly monitor travelers — especially to prevent unauthorized weapons and the escape of women from Edo, hence the phrase “No guns in, no women out.” The restored buildings include the inspection gates, guard posts, and the women’s examination area. The museum displays armor, documents, and everyday items used during that time, giving a vivid picture of Edo-period travel control.
 

Nature lovers will also appreciate the stunning view of Lake Ashi from the trail’s end in Motohakone. On clear days, Mount Fuji appears behind the lake, offering a postcard-perfect reward for your efforts. The lakeside is dotted with photo spots, benches, and cafes, providing a relaxing conclusion to your hike.
 

Other small but meaningful highlights include old milestones (ichirizuka), historical signposts, and stone markers engraved with “Tokaido.” These details, while easy to overlook, add layers of depth to the experience. For those who enjoy photography or historical exploration, the trail is a treasure trove of hidden gems.
 

Each season adds a new layer of beauty to the trail. Spring brings cherry blossoms and fresh greenery. Summer offers cool shade under dense foliage. Autumn lights up the forest in reds and golds. And winter occasionally dusts the path in snow, turning it into a quiet, silvery world. No matter when you visit, the trail has a way of drawing you into its timeless rhythm.
 

Ultimately, the Hakone Old Tokaido Trail is more than a hiking route — it’s a journey through history, nature, and memory. Every stone, tree, and landmark invites you to slow down, observe, and reflect on the countless travelers who walked this path long before you.

Though the Hakone Old Tokaido Trail is rich in history and culture, it also presents a moderately challenging hike, with a total distance of around 10 kilometers and an elevation gain of over 600 meters. That said, with the right preparation, it’s a perfectly manageable route even for beginners. This section offers practical advice on what to wear, what to pack, and how to walk the trail safely and comfortably.
 

First and foremost: your footwear matters. While parts of the trail are paved, many sections feature uneven stone paths and dirt slopes that become slippery when wet. Ordinary sneakers might suffice in dry weather, but for better grip and safety, light hiking shoes or trail running shoes with good traction are highly recommended. They help reduce fatigue and prevent slips, especially on the stone-paved slopes.
 

In terms of clothing, the key is to dress in layers. The weather can change quickly in the mountains, and temperatures are typically cooler than in nearby towns. In spring and fall, breathable long-sleeve shirts and lightweight hiking pants are ideal. In winter, fleece and a windproof outer layer will keep you warm. Since you’ll be walking uphill much of the time, clothes that are easy to move in and wick away sweat are best.
 

Don’t forget a rain jacket or poncho, even if the forecast looks clear. Sudden mountain showers are not uncommon. Using an umbrella on steep, narrow paths can be risky, so opt for waterproof outerwear that keeps both hands free.
 

As for what to bring, here are some essentials that every hiker — beginner or experienced — should have:

• 500ml to 1L of water or sports drink

• Lightweight snacks (e.g., energy bars, trail mix, chocolate)

• A small towel (for sweat or unexpected rain)

• A phone with a charged battery and offline map app

• A portable charger

• Basic first-aid supplies (especially blister care)

• Paper map or printout of the trail (available at tourist centers)

While there are few facilities along the trail, Amazake Chaya serves as a midpoint rest stop, offering refreshments and seating. However, it’s the only food and drink option directly along the trail, so stock up at Hakone-Yumoto Station before starting your hike. There are convenience stores, bakeries, and local bento shops near the station.
 

When walking, remember: short, controlled steps are safer than long strides — especially on stone paths. Keep your center of gravity low, and be cautious of mossy or wet stones. On steeper sections, it’s helpful to keep a steady rhythm to your breathing — for example, “inhale for two steps, exhale for two steps.” This helps conserve energy over longer distances.
 

For extra balance and joint relief, a trekking pole or walking stick can make a big difference, particularly on descents. Even a single pole provides added stability and reduces knee strain.
 

It’s also important to stay aware of your surroundings. The trail winds through dense forests, uneven terrain, and historical sites. Avoid using your phone while walking. If you want to take a photo or check directions, stop safely before doing so.
 

One of the biggest reasons this trail is beginner-friendly is its accessibility to escape routes. The Old Tokaido runs close to National Route 1, which has several bus stops. If you feel tired, unwell, or pressed for time, you can easily exit the trail and hop on a bus to either Hakone-Yumoto or Lake Ashi.
 

The most important rule for beginners is to go at your own pace. You don’t need to rush. Part of the trail’s charm is the slow, steady rhythm that allows you to take in your surroundings. Whether you’re admiring moss-covered stones, stopping to sip tea under towering trees, or listening to birdsong in the woods, the trail invites you to savor the journey — not just the destination.

Planning your trip to the Hakone Old Tokaido Trail involves more than just the walk itself. Because the starting and ending points are different, understanding transportation options ahead of time is key. Fortunately, the route is easily accessible by public transit — and once you finish, a wealth of hot springs and delicious local food await you.
 

The trail typically starts at Hakone-Yumoto Station, a gateway to the Hakone area. If you’re coming from Tokyo, the fastest and most convenient option is the Odakyu Romancecar, a limited express train that runs directly from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto in about 90 minutes. You can also take a bullet train (Shinkansen) to Odawara Station, then transfer to the Odakyu Line for a quick 15-minute ride to Hakone-Yumoto.
 

While it’s possible to start walking straight from the station, many hikers opt to take a Hakone Tozan Bus to the Hatajuku area, which skips the more urban section and puts you closer to the preserved stone-paved paths. This approach allows you to focus on the most scenic and historical part of the trail.
 

The endpoint of the trail is Motohakone, located on the shores of Lake Ashi. From here, returning to your original location is simple. Frequent buses run from Motohakone back to Hakone-Yumoto and Odawara, typically every 15 to 30 minutes during the day. Alternatively, you can board a sightseeing cruise ship — known as the “Hakone Pirate Ship” — that crosses the lake and connects to other transit options like the ropeway and cable car, making for a scenic and fun return trip.
 

After a rewarding hike, it’s time to unwind — and Hakone is famous for its hot springs. The Motohakone area has several onsen (hot spring) facilities that welcome day-use visitors. Whether you prefer a traditional Japanese inn with an open-air bath or a modern spa-style experience, you’ll find a variety of options to soothe your tired muscles. Some facilities even offer foot baths or towel rentals, so you don’t need to bring much with you.
 

No visit to Hakone is complete without indulging in local cuisine. Near Lake Ashi, you’ll find restaurants serving everything from wakasagi (smelt) tempura, a lakeside delicacy, to handmade soba noodles and seasonal sweets. Traditional tea houses and cozy cafes offer a perfect spot to relax and reflect on your journey. Popular dishes include curry rice, mochi desserts, and of course, amazake, the sweet rice drink that’s been refreshing travelers for generations.
 

If time permits, consider visiting nearby cultural sites such as Hakone Shrine, famous for its red torii gate standing in the lake, or the Kuzuryu Shrine, nestled deeper in the forest. These sites offer a peaceful, spiritual close to your day and provide additional photo-worthy moments.
 

Another popular option is to use a Hakone Freepass, which offers unlimited access to buses, trains, boats, and cable cars in the area. This pass is ideal if you plan to combine hiking with sightseeing, such as stopping at the Hakone Open-Air Museum, Polà Museum of Art, or the scenic Owakudani volcanic valley.
 

It’s also worth noting that while some hikers choose to start from Motohakone and walk down to Hakone-Yumoto, this reverse route includes a lot of downhill on stone steps, which can be harsh on the knees and ankles — especially for beginners. The traditional uphill direction from Yumoto to Lake Ashi is generally recommended for a safer, more rewarding experience.
 

In summary, the Hakone Old Tokaido Trail is not just a hike — it’s a complete cultural experience, combining history, nature, wellness, and food. Whether you're traveling solo or with friends, it’s a journey that engages all the senses and leaves you with memories far beyond the walk itself.